Good rant from Jay Rayner, Observer Food Mag, 8.12.13, started with a quote from Russian restaurateur Arkady Novikov, complaining about the customers he gets at his Mayfair joint.

Rayner said:

“If you haven’t heard of Novikov be grateful.  It’s a nose-bleedingly expensive septic tank containing all that is wrong with flash restaurants where the Italian food tastes like cheap Chinese and the Imperial sashimi platter costs £227.  Before service.

“Right now there’s a luxe food economy, focused on a couple of London postcodes, which is entirely supported by a grotesque, preening, Laboutin-heeled, gold-plated iPhone-carrying, Bugati-driving, resource-pillaging excuse for humanity that floats like some gold-flecked scummy head on the warm beer of an economy trying to make do.

“Many of these restaurants are actually rather good: superb ingredients, great cooking, skilled service.  And all of it is completely wasted on the very people who can afford it; the ones who book in not out of hunger but because they like the way the lighting flatters their complexion and the toiletries in the bogs make them smell like one of Dita Von Teese’s freshly pampered armpits.”



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